Dongnae & Oncheonjang: Busan's Hot Springs, Fortress Walls, and Grilled Galbi

Dongnae is older than Busan. For most of Korean history it was the administrative town of this region, walled and defended, and the port that became modern Busan was just a harbor below it. Today it's an inland district about twenty minutes north of the beaches, and it's where Busan goes when it wants a bath and a proper meal rather than a sea view.

What's here

• Dongnaeeupseong Fortress. The remains of the town wall run along the hills north of the district, with restored gates and a walking trail. It's a pleasant hour and almost empty on weekdays.
• Oncheonjang. Busan's hot spring quarter, in use since the Silla period and developed into a spa town in the early twentieth century. Several large public bathhouses still run on real spring water.
• Beomeosa Temple. Up on Geumjeongsan at the north end of the district — one of the major Korean Buddhist temples, and the trailhead for the Geumjeongsanseong fortress walk.
• Geumgang Park and the cable car up Geumjeongsan for the view back over the city.

What to eat

Dongnae has two dishes that carry its name across Korea:

• Dongnae pajeon (동래파전). A thick, soft scallion pancake with seafood, historically made with the local spring onions and eaten with makgeolli. It's a different animal from the crisp Seoul version — softer, eggier, richer.
• Charcoal galbi. The district's old grill houses are a Busan institution, marinating beef short rib and cooking it over charcoal in rooms that haven't changed their formula in decades.

Beyond those two:

• Sanseong makgeolli. The rice wine brewed up at the Geumjeong fortress village, traditionally drunk with grilled black goat or pajeon.
• Jjajangmyeon and jjamppong. Dongnae has a serious old Chinese-Korean restaurant culture.
• Sushi and hoe. Being Busan, even an inland district has strong raw fish.
• Udon and bunsik. Stand-up udon counters and market snack shops around Suan and Myeongnyun.

Making a day of it

The clean route: Beomeosa Temple in the morning (it's at the end of Line 1), the Geumjeongsanseong wall trail if you have energy, then down into Oncheonjang for a bath, then dinner — pajeon and makgeolli, or galbi over charcoal. A soak followed by grilled beef is one of the great Korean combinations and Dongnae is the place to do it.

Practical tips

• Getting there: Dongnae Station (Lines 1, 4), Oncheonjang Station (Line 1), Beomeosa Station (Line 1) then a short bus or taxi up the hill.
• Public bathhouses require you to wash before entering the pools and are strictly single-sex and unclothed. Bring or rent a towel.
• Tattoos can still be an issue at older bathhouses; the larger spa complexes are more relaxed.
• Beomeosa is a working temple. Dress modestly and keep quiet in the halls.
• Pajeon is a shared dish. Order one for two people plus something else.

Each restaurant below has a video on its EatHub page. Pick the grill house first, then work the bath in before it.