Yangyang: A Cliffside Temple, Korea's Surf Beaches and Wild-Mussel Soup

Yangyang (양양) sits on Gangwon's east coast between Sokcho and Gangneung, where Seoraksan's peaks drop toward the sea. It used to be the quiet stretch you drove through. Now it's one of the country's favourite beach escapes, thanks to a thousand-year-old temple on a sea cliff and Korea's liveliest surf town.

What to see

• Naksansa Temple (낙산사) — founded in the 7th century by the monk Uisang, on a headland above the East Sea. It was badly burned in the 2005 forest fire and carefully rebuilt. Don't miss the Uisangdae pavilion on the rocks (a classic sunrise spot), the Hongryeonam hermitage built over a sea cave, and the huge Haesu Gwaneum statue looking out over the water.
• Hajodae (하조대) — a pavilion on pine-covered rocks, with a lighthouse and a skywalk. It's one of the prettiest viewpoints on the whole coast.
• Jukdo and Ingu Beaches — the heart of Korea's surf scene, with surf schools, board rentals, beach bars and a young crowd all summer. Beginners' lessons run most of the year.
• Namdaecheon Stream — in autumn, salmon return here to spawn, and Yangyang holds its pine mushroom (songi) festival in the same season.

What to eat

Yangyang's food is rooted in the sea and the mountains behind it.

• Honghap (홍합, wild mussels) — Osan Hoetjip, near Osan Beach, serves wild mussel soup, mussel porridge and mussel salad. It was featured on Choiza Road.
• Makguksu and memil — chilled buckwheat noodles are Gangwon's summer staple. Try Donghae Makguksu (with boiled pork) or Sangun Memilchon.
• Knife-cut noodles and naengmyeon in Yangyang town — Mulchi Son Kalguksu (with dumplings) and Hamgyeong Myeonok are both near the market.
• Herbal chicken soup — Gakdugol, inland toward the Seorak pass, is a slow, restorative meal after a mountain day.

Getting around

• By bus: express buses from Seoul's Gangnam and Dong Seoul terminals reach Yangyang in about two to two and a half hours.
• By car: the Seoul–Yangyang Expressway makes it an easy drive.
• Beaches and sights are spread out, so a rental car or taxis make the day much easier.

Practical tips

• Yangyang's traditional market runs on dates ending in 4 and 9 (the 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th and so on). That's the most fun day to visit town.
• Sunrise at Naksansa is worth the early alarm. Check sunrise times and arrive 20 minutes early.
• Summer weekends are busy, especially at the surf beaches. Book accommodation in advance.
• Allergies: mussel dishes are shellfish, and buckwheat is a common allergen.

Every restaurant below has a video on its EatHub page, which is handy when you're choosing between noodle shops.