Uijeongbu: A Day Trip to the Home of Budae-jjigae

Budae-jjigae (부대찌개), "army base stew," is one of Korea's most-loved comfort foods, and one of its most historical. After the Korean War, the towns around US military bases had little food but access to surplus ham, sausages and canned beans. Cooks put them into a spicy kimchi stew. The result became a national dish.

Uijeongbu, north of Seoul, was one of those towns. Today it has a whole Budae-jjigae Street and makes an easy, very tasty day trip.

What Uijeongbu-style budae-jjigae is like

There are two famous "schools" of army stew:

• Uijeongbu style is cleaner and more broth-forward: kimchi, ham, sausage and tofu in a spicy, savoury broth, and traditionally light on cheese or baked beans.
• Songtan style (from Pyeongtaek, further south) is richer and heavier, often with more processed meats and cheese.

In Uijeongbu, you'll usually add ramyeon noodles partway through and eat with a bowl of rice.

Where to eat

• Gyeongwon Sikdang is a long-running army stew house, designated a "hundred-year shop" and featured on Sung Si-kyung's food channel.
• Jeongtong Budaegogi for stew and hot pot, a local favourite.
• Byeolmi Sundaeguk for rich sundae (blood sausage) soup and boiled meat, also featured by Sung Si-kyung. It's a great option if you've had enough ham.
• Gohyang Gajeongsik Baekban for a home-style set meal with lots of side dishes.
• Hwangpo Yeontan-gui for charcoal-briquette grilled pork.
• Jihaerim, another popular local Korean restaurant.

How to eat army stew

1. The pot arrives raw. Wait for it to boil before touching anything.
2. Add the noodles when the broth is bubbling, and eat them early, before they go soft.
3. Scoop ham, sausage, tofu and broth over rice.
4. Most places will top up the broth if it reduces too much. Just ask.

What else to do

• Hoeryongsa Temple sits on the flank of Dobongsan, part of Bukhansan National Park. A walk up the valley is the perfect appetite-builder.
• Uijeongbu Jeil Market is one of the biggest traditional markets in northern Gyeonggi.
• Uijeongbu Arts Center hosts concerts and an annual music-theatre festival.

Practical tips

• Getting there: Seoul Subway Line 1 to Uijeongbu Station, about 50 minutes from central Seoul. Budae-jjigae Street is a short walk or taxi from the Uijeongbu Jungang area.
• Portions: stews are ordered per person, usually with a two-person minimum.
• Spice level: medium. Ask for less spicy ("덜 맵게") if needed.
• Allergies: processed meats, wheat noodles, soy and sometimes cheese.

Every restaurant below has a video on its EatHub page. Watch one before you go to see how the pot comes to the table.