Anyang: A Valley of Public Art Under Gwanaksan, and a Market Built for Snacking

Anyang (안양) lies just south of Seoul, in the shadow of Gwanaksan. Few visitors come here on purpose, which is a shame. Its main sight is one of the most unusual art spaces in Korea, and its old downtown market is great for eating.

Anyang Art Park (안양예술공원)

For decades, the valley below Gwanaksan and Samseongsan was Anyang Resort, a cheap summer escape with swimming holes and riverside restaurants. In the 2000s the city cleaned up the stream and invited artists and architects to fill the valley with work, through the Anyang Public Art Project (APAP).

Today it's a free, open-air gallery along the stream and up the hillsides:

• The Anyang Pavilion, designed by Portuguese architect Álvaro Siza, is a white, curving building that's now a public art centre.
• A spiralling hilltop observatory structure by the Dutch firm MVRDV.
• Dozens of sculptures and installations hidden along the trails, some playful and some odd.
• Hiking routes lead on up toward Gwanaksan and Samseongsan for bigger views.

It's lovely in autumn, and on hot summer days families still paddle in the stream.

What to eat

In and around Anyang Jungang Market (Anyang 1-dong, near Anyang Station):

• Honggane Yeongyang Center — samgyetang (ginseng chicken soup), a whole young chicken stuffed with rice and ginseng. It was featured by mukbang star Tzuyang (the hero video above).
• Beoseot Kalguksu — mushroom knife-cut noodles and dumplings, a market institution.
• Rang Donuts — freshly fried market donuts, on the same street.

Elsewhere in the city:

• Hangeunjip — hanwoo beef, beef sashimi, bulgogi and a hanwoo doenjang stew.
• Gongtan (Indeogwon) — marinated beef rib fingers, skirt steak and short rib.
• Daemyeong Gopchang — grilled beef tripe and intestines near Gwanak Station.

How to plan the day

Take Line 1 to Gwanak Station or Anyang Station, then a short bus or taxi ride to the Art Park. Walk the valley and trails in the morning. Head down to the Jungang Market for a late lunch and snacks, then return to Seoul from Anyang Station. Save a beef dinner in Indeogwon or Pyeongchon for another visit.

Practical tips

• Getting there: Seoul Subway Line 1 to Anyang or Gwanak (about 30–40 minutes from Seoul Station). Line 4 serves the Pyeongchon and Indeogwon side.
• The Art Park is free and open all day. The Anyang Pavilion has its own opening hours.
• Samgyetang is served very hot. Pull the meat off with chopsticks and let it cool a little.
• Allergies: kalguksu contains wheat, and donuts contain wheat, egg and dairy.

Every restaurant below has a video on its EatHub page. They're a quick way to decide between the market stalls.