Euljiro, Seoul: Nogari Alley and the Restaurants Behind Old Print Shops

Euljiro (을지로) is the part of Seoul's Jung-gu where printing shops, lighting stores and hardware workshops share narrow alleys with tiny restaurants. It sits between Myeongdong and Jongno, and it is a good choice if you want everyday Seoul food instead of a polished tourist street. The main stops cluster around Euljiro 3-ga Station.

What to see

Euljiro Nogari Alley (을지로 노가리골목) is a lane of small beer pubs, with outdoor tables that fill up after work. The word nogari means dried young pollack, a classic Korean beer snack. Nearby, the Sewoon Sangga electronics complex and the Jeon Tae-il Memorial Hall are short walks along the Cheonggyecheon stream.

What to eat

• Euljikalguksu (을지칼국수) serves knife-cut noodles and dumplings at the lowest price tier (₩).
• Cheongwaok (청와옥) serves sundae soup, a blood sausage soup (₩₩).
• Torikami (토리카미) is a grilled chicken place, with a "grilled chicken trio" on EatHub (₩₩).
• Hwayukgye (화육계) pairs jokbal (boiled pork trotters), chicken feet, rolled omelette and rice balls (₩₩).
• Euljikkankkan (을지깐깐) serves Vietnamese noodles and rolls such as banh canh cua, pho bo and bun cha (₩). Listed hours are 11:30 to 22:00, with a break from 15:00 to 17:30.
• Euljirojeonjuok (을지로전주옥) serves squid braised in a spicy sauce with ribs (₩₩), and has been on the TV show Heo Young-man's Baekban Gihaeng.

How to eat

Share dishes, the Korean way. Order a noodle or soup first, then add a grilled or braised dish for the table. Euljiro restaurants are small, so expect to share a table in busy hours. Most of these places list no hours on EatHub, so check each page. A good first-timer route is a bowl of noodles or soup at lunch, a walk through the alleys and past Sewoon Sangga in the afternoon, and grilled chicken or braised dishes in the evening.

When to go

Lunch is fast and easy on weekdays. Evenings around Nogari Alley are lively and loud, so choose lunch or an early dinner if you prefer a quieter meal. Check each restaurant's opening days on its EatHub page before you go, because small places often close on set days.

Around the area

For more of central Seoul, read our guides to Myeongdong and Bukchon, Insadong and Gwanghwamun.

Practical tips

• Getting there: Take Seoul Subway Line 2 or Line 3 to Euljiro 3-ga Station.
• Small spaces: Many restaurants here are tiny, so go in a small group and be ready to wait for a table.
• Allergies: Noodles contain wheat. Sundae soup and jokbal are pork-based. Vietnamese dishes may include shrimp, fish sauce and peanuts.

Every restaurant below has a video on its EatHub page. They are a quick way to choose where to eat.