Gijang: A Temple on the Rocks, an Outlet Mall, and Busan's Coastal Edge

Gijang-gun is the county at Busan's northeastern edge, past Haeundae, where the city finally gives out into coastline. It has the most photographed temple in the region, a long stretch of quiet beach, and a resort development that has turned the area into a genuine day trip rather than a detour.

What to see

• Haedong Yonggungsa. Korean temples are almost always in the mountains. This one is on the rocks at the water's edge, reached down a staircase of 108 steps through a tunnel of stone lanterns, with the waves directly below the main hall. Founded in the fourteenth century, rebuilt in the 1930s, and completely unlike anywhere else you'll visit in Korea. Free to enter, open from early morning.
• The Osiria Coastal Walk. A boardwalk-and-path route along the cliffs between the temple and the resort area, with the East Sea on one side the whole way.
• Ilgwang Beach. A wide, shallow, calm bay further north — a local family beach rather than a party one, with a fishing village at one end.
• Haeparang Trail. Busan's section of the long east-coast walking route passes through Gijang on its way north toward Ulsan.
• The outlet malls. Two large premium outlets sit beside the coastal road, which is either a reason to come or a reason to plan around the traffic, depending on your temperament.

What to eat

Gijang is a fishing county and its two specialties are seasonal and very local:

• Gijang anchovies (기장 멸치). In spring, the boats land large anchovies that are eaten raw as hoe, grilled, or made into a spicy jjigae. The anchovy festival in April is the peak.
• Gijang seaweed and gwamegi. The county is known nationally for its miyeok and dasima, which turn up in everything.
• Dwaeji-gukbap. The Busan pork soup, done in the county's older market restaurants.
• Hoe and grilled shellfish at the harbor restaurants — the best value on this coast, since the boats are right there.
• Jjajangmyeon. Long-running Chinese-Korean restaurants in the old town, which is where locals actually eat.
• Sushi and pizza at the outlet complexes if you're travelling with people who have had enough seafood.

How to plan the day

The efficient loop: get to the temple early (it is genuinely quiet before 9am and genuinely crowded by 11), walk the Osiria coastal path, eat lunch at the harbor or in Gijang's old town, and finish at Ilgwang Beach or the outlets. From Haeundae it's about 30 minutes.

Practical tips

• Getting there: Donggbaek or Haeundae, then bus 181 to Yonggungsa; or the Donghae Line commuter train to Osiria Station, which is far more comfortable and connects into the Busan subway.
• The temple staircase is steep and uneven. It is not step-free.
• Go early. Yonggungsa is one of the busiest sights in the region from late morning onward.
• Buddha's Birthday (April or May) covers the temple in lanterns and is spectacular, and packed.
• The coastal wind is serious even in summer. Bring a layer.

Each restaurant below has a video on its EatHub page — useful on a coast where harbor restaurants look identical and the difference is in the kitchen.